677. Gonzalez-Byass, Tio Pepe En Rama Fino Sherry, NV (2012)

£6.99; 15%

I tried the 3^rd release in The Vineyard, Dorking, and was struck by its quite meaty finish – reminiscent of roast chicken juices. So I bought a bottle at Adnams’ closing-down Spitalfields store, for not-very-much. Overall, fine, deep and complex. Good. Mid-gold. Rich and subtle nose – fino, but not overly so. Something apple-skin and citrus-like – but what? Salty, briny notes, toast, blackcurrant-leaf fruitiness, with olive and kipper hints for savouriness. On the palate, initially fresh and quite citrussy, then the salty tang emerges, to bring out fresh olive notes. Medium-bodied, long, meaty finish, and well balanced.