An exploration of wine

857. Horst Sauer for Fortnum & Mason, Escherndorfer Lump Silvaner Spätlese Trocken Franken, 2012

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Book 5 Wine 857

£21.50; 13%

The most interesting of Year 2’s neutral whites line-up, and also one of the riper. From Horst Sauer, who is apparently one of the finest proponents, and it showed here. Medium gold. Whilst not hugely aromatic, this was characteristically earthy and nutty – even white pepper-like. Slatey mineral. Savoury. Almost crystal pear and citrus fruit beneath. Complex. Fairly full-bodied. Peachy stone fruit. Spicy, earthy minerality. Some cream touches. Moderate acidity. Long, though with some alcohol through the finish. Slight palate spritz.

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