838. Domaine de la Vieille Julienne, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2005

£34.59; 15.5%

This wine is well-rated, but disappointed on opening the first of 12 of these, so opened another a few days later. Better, but still missing something. This may be going through a closed phase? Deep ruby, with garnet hints at the rim – quite saturated for a Grenache-dominant wine. On the nose, hints of gravel mineral, some resinous herb, then macerated dark fruit – kirsch and blackberry – which ‘carries’ the 15.5%. Opens up to show more though – chilli and sweet oak spice notes emerge. Sweet black cherry entry, moderate freshness, then some drying, fine tannic structure on the moderate length finish. Missing some back-palate.