860. Domaine FL, Chamboureau Savennières-Chenin, 2009

£39.90; 14%

Put this initially in a neutrals line-up, and it stood out as clearly semi-aromatic, so put it in that line-up too. Despite being 2 weeks later, it hadn’t changed dramatically, and if anything had become slightly tighter and less broad. Mid-gold. Lifted, semi-aromatic jasmine notes over broad yellow apple, cream and toasty touches. ‘Pebbly’ minerality. Complex. Open. Full-ish body. Firm acidity. Cream. Yellow apple, and powerful, slightly oxidative butter and jasmine overtones. Almost lanolin notes. Spicy mid-palate. Big and bruising style in a neutral line-up, but showed more elegance in the semi-aromatic.