An exploration of wine

786. Mount Horrocks, Cordon Cut Riesling Clare Valley, 2013

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Book 5 Wine 786

£23.85 / 37.5cl; 11.5%

A bit of an exam curiosity, this one. Made by cutting the canes on ripening Riesling bunches, so that they shrivel and concentrate the sugar and acidity. Interesting. Very sweet, but with a streak of lemon acidity just about to hold it together. Over 200 g/L RS apparently – and it is lusciously thick. Mid-deep gold. Crystalline lemon fruit, with a touch of yellow peach Riesling ripeness. Tropical fruit emerges. Some vanilla perhaps? Very sweet palate entry, then pure fruit: yellow peach and preserved lemon. Thick. Full-bodied. Acidity feels only crisp, but with the sugar, could be firmer. OK, overall, though I wouldn’t buy it.

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