A fabulous rarity, with just 2Ha of Bastardo (aka Trousseau) now grown on Madeira, and rarely bottled varietally. So good, in this case, that I had to seek out another bottle from old Madeira specialist, d’Oliveiras. Deep amber-brown, with tawny glints. A broad caramel rim with olive hints: clearly an aged wine! Medium+ intensity, complex nose of cocoa, coffee chocolate, walnut marzipan and clear rancio notes. With some dried prune fruit, it’s almost brandy butter. Medium-full body, crisp acidity to balance the medium level of sweetness. Full intensity, smoky, granitic minerality, volcanic rock, and smoky lemon-ginger and chocolate notes. Saline. Long. Great.