An exploration of wine

438. Bodegas Tradicion for Fortnum & Mason, Amontillado 30 Years Old VORS, NV (2008)

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Book 3 Wine 438

£15 / 37.5cl; 19.5%

A couple of half bottles of this bought for Fortified Wine tasting practice (which obviously worked, as I managed a distinction!). An outstanding example of the style: beautiful balance that keeps the wine refreshing, huge length and persistence, with very complex flavours and aromas. I can see, though, how very old Amontillados can become increasingly challenging to drink, as they age – this one, 10 years older, would probably be too dominated by rancio character and astringency. But it is great right now. Medium-deep amber, with some wateriness at the rim. Layers of oxidative character on the nose: caramel, cinnamon, Christmas cake and Demerara sugar, with coffee hints, and supported by the dairy notes of ‘rancio’! Pronounced salty, nutty, smoky, Marmite palate with a very long, smoky, rancio finish. Medium acidity maintains freshness. Medium-full body fills the mouth nicely.

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