Kicked-off Christmas in style with this. It was a pleasure to see that this was one of the 8-10 1998 Champagnes that Tom Stevenson selected for his vintage Masterclass at this year’s Decanter Fine Wine Encounter. And fine it is. Elegant and refined, but with characteristic fruitiness that suggests a fair slug of Pinot Meunier. Pale straw, with persistent, lively, and fine bead. Moderate intensity nose – initially of marmite, but this soon settled to leave a toasty note over a blend of raspberry and green-apple fruit. Fresh, but not rasping acidity, that seemed to balance-out the dosage well. Good length, and again a quite fruity palate. Elegant mouthfeel.