453. Champagne Pol Roger, Extra Cuvée de Réserve Vintage, 1998

£47.50; 12%

A pair of engagements in the same week in the office (Anna’s and Christian’s) necessitated grabbing the last bottle of this from Planet of the Grapes. And worthwhile it was too – a fine bead and delicate mousse suggested quality, and although it was beginning to show some emergent toasty notes on warming, it felt like it could have matured further over a couple of years This was due to a taught ‘line’ of lemon acidity on the palate, with some decent flavour concentration. Pale lemon. Creamy lees ageing notes initially.