An exploration of wine

925. Filipa Pato, Nossa Calcário Tinto Bairrada, 2011

81 0
Book 5 Wine 925

£25; 13%

In my ‘Odd Reds’ line-up, I thought I’d put my first Baga. And this showed how good it can be when expertly handled by the new wave of winemakers like Filipa Pato. Though structured, Baga’s notoriously robust and rustic tannins are very well handled and tamed here. Deep ruby-purple. Spicy cinnamon new French oak entry, then smoky, savoury notes. ‘Dry stone’ minerality. Dense, sweet black fruit with a baked brick touch. On the palate, juicy, smoky black fruit. Dense. Powerful. Like a sweeter-fruited Cahors, with fine but powerful tannins.

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