798. Champagne Louis Roederer, Brut, 2007

£55.25; 12%

Also a mature vintage Champagne, and ultimately the wine of the sparkling line-up = just had more refinement and length than Le Mesnil. Mid-deep gold, with a persistent, fine bead. Subtle aromatics of buttered toast, hints of mushroom, some spicy notes. A hint of apple, but tertiary dominance. On the palate, toast, bruised apple and some riper yellow fruit. Nutty and mushroomy complexity with more butteriness – MLF? Ripe lemon acidity. Beautifully balanced.