911. Domaine Laroche, Réserve de laObédience Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots, 1996

£?? / 150cl; 13%

The finale of a 20-50 winemaker dinner with Gregory Valloire – one of the 4 of the last 8 magnums of this at the Domaine. This showed how stern, austere Chablis can age nearly 20 years into a much more rounded, complex, rich wine – yet one that still holds its firmness. Deep gold. Complex, developed nose, with vegetal hints – gentian root, according to Gregory – honey, touches of crystal fruit, sour cream, chalk, and lots of hazelnut. On the palate, crystal lemon, chalk, touches of honey, almond and leather. Brisk acidity gives structure. Long. Mature.