An exploration of wine

879. Weinlaubenhof Kracher, Beerenauslese Cuvée Burgenland, 2011

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Book 5 Wine 879

£14.60 / 37.5cl; 11%

[Sweet power. Gerhard Kracher]

So, according to Herr Kracher, the beerenauslesen and other botrytised wines are his main aim, with Eiswein being a back-up plan if this doesn’t work out. Tasting the two 2011s alongside, the Eiswein was the more immediately satisfying. Nevertheless, this had potential as well as good balance. Mid-deep gold, with green glints. Musky and broad, with lemon rind, fresh quince, vegetal green touches, and overlays of ‘sweaty’ botrytis fungus. Dense, tight, spicy quince juice palate, with lemony acidity. Spicy. Youthful. Medium-full body. Sweet (110 g/L), and quite crisp acidity (7 g/L). On warming, a herbal, fennel-like note emerges. Fruit a touch short.

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