836. Shaw+Smith, M3 Chardonnay Adelaide Hills, 2012

£26; 13%

I’ve long thought of M3 Chardonnay as benchmark Aussie Chardonnay. This vintage is certainly in the classic style, but somehow disappointed a little – missing some degree of palate density and integration perhaps. Mid green-gold. Vegetal lees aromatics on entry, then cream and a touch of new oak in the background. Passionfruit notes then emerge. Quite a lot of winemaking. Moderate intensity, slightly flinty passionfruit and ripe lemon palate. Mid length, with some creamy oak touches at the finish.