769. Domaine Jean-Marc Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts, 2011

£48.90; 13%

So it begins… The first of the highlights from a series of themed, open tastings of example wines typically found in the MW final tasting papers. To be able to identify things blind, it makes sense to have tasted them sighted, and analysed why they are what they are. First up, 23 Chardonnays from around the world, and the Pulignys showed very well. Mid gold. Some fennel herb and touch of oatmeal notes, with classic cream and restrained, just-ripe yellow fruit. Subtle, background oak notes. Mineral core. Tightly wound, with bright acidity.