An exploration of wine

719. Champagne Egly-Ouriet, Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Ambonnay Les Crayères Brut, NV (2013)

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Book 4 Wine 719

£69.36; 12.5%

Finally tasted this über-grower Champagne at J&B’s grower tasting, and this estate lived up to its reputation entirely. This was my wine of the tasting, so I bought 6. And it is definitively a wine that is sparkling – with body and flavour that works with food – like a good smooth full cream pâté. Deep gold, with a fine, persistent bead. Pronounced nose led by creamy leesiness (62 months, pre-disgorgement in September 2012), with some toasty, almost yeast-extract and bread notes, over a fruit core of lemon and apricot. Delicate mousse, full-bodied, full-flavoured ‘vinous’ palate with more leesy, toasty notes, over ripe lemon. Beautifully balanced acidity and dosage, giving a long, harmonious finish. Lovely.

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