An exploration of wine

720. Champagne Philipponnat, Clos des Goisses Brut, 2000

185 0
Book 4 Wine 720

£78.52; 13%

It took a long time (and several bottles) to get a proper tasting note down to accompany the label from bottle 1. Ultimately, this is as much an observation of its style and evolution over that extended period of time, than a single tasting note. I bought a 6-pack on the back of the reputation of this single, walled vineyard – not only as by far the best of Philipponnat, but also as a standalone great wine. This 70% Pinot Noir has consistently shown weight and presence, coupled with a fine line of acidity and an undertow of minerality that kept great tension and life, even as it developed. Mid-gold, stone fruit and toasty lees in its youth, over time it has become burnished gold, with marked ginger biscuit character. Richness close to Egly-Ouriet Crayères, but those strings of acidity and flinty minerality have continued to hold that in balance. A lovely, distinctive Champagne.

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