An exploration of wine

616. Hatzidakis, Mavrotragano Cyclades, 2005

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Book 4 Wine 616

£14.50; 14%

[Signed by Haridimos Hatzidakis in 2016, about 6 months before he killed himself]

This is, self-evidently, Hatzidakis’ Mavrotragano, which is a rare, red Santorini wine. The variety makes up 2% of the island’s vineyard. So since Petros was at Whippet’s it seemed as good an excuse as any to try it! And I would say a well-made and above all nice, interesting wine. Quite Nebbiolo-esque characteristics. Medium-garnet core with a broad, watery rim (and lots of sediment). Perfumed cherry and violets on the nose, but with grilled, smoky meat and coffee / liquorice notes too. Some sweet spice. Medium-bodied, with medium+ acidity lending welcome freshness. Medium+, slightly grainy tannins. Sweet, red cherry and slightly confected raspberry fruit through a medium-length finish. Good with barbeque lamb. Nice!

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