An exploration of wine

454. Domaine Ostertag, Fronholz “Muscat” Alsace, 2002

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Book 3 Wine 454

£??; 11.5%

One from the 3rd “ABC” Optimor case, this one, and an intriguing one at that – aged Muscat. To cap that, I’ve heard that this has seen barrel ageing. Neither of these actions is commonplace for the highly aromatic Muscat family, even if this is Muscat Ottonel. This certainly tones-down the aromatics, but blends in complexity. A medium lemon colour. On the nose, creamy hints add to tropical fruit (lychee, mandarin and dessert apple), over a slightly ‘tingly’, sherbet lemon nose. This estate is biodynamic. Perhaps that’s what gives it the sense of being ‘alive’ on the palate, with forward fruit of ripe apples and a lemon juice acidity streak, plus some leafiness, over an underlying gravelly or slatey minerality. Complex, balanced, with plenty of body, albeit a little short on length of fruit.

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