One of the first 1996 Champagnes I’d drunk, and looked very young, compared with the 1995 Delamotte, for example. A tasting of Bollinger RD vintages gave similar results a couple of weeks later. At this point, it’s a touch austere. Mid yellow-gold, with a lively, persistent and fairly fine bead. Moderate intensity, brioche-led nose, with a touch of fresh cream, and lemon fruit. ‘Frothy’ palate. Quite lean, dry and fairly elegant, with a touch of biscuit on the finish. I’ll be saving the 2nd bottle for at least 2-3 years.