An exploration of wine

96. Nicolis, Testal, 2000

761 0
Book 1 Wine 96

£11.80; ??%

First drank the 1997 at Tentazione Italian restaurant on the recommendation of the owner (as being a cheap but good alternative to amarone). That was very good and rich, so I asked the owner if he would get me some. Time passed and ultimately he could only get hold of the 2000. When I opened this first, it had the dark chocolatey aromas that I had remembered from the ’97 (which result from the use of dried grapes like amarone). But there was something missing on mid-palate, or maybe in aroma. Fairly dry, suggesting maybe 2-3 years is needed to age the 2000 so that it matures like the ’97 (drunk in the same year, 2003). However, drinking the rest of the bottle over the next 2-3 days took edges out while bringing the fruit through. So chocolatey aromas with burnt sugar are laid over cherry (smell similar to Kreik beer), with a hint of smooth vanilla. Rich fruit flavour with a well-balanced vanilla note at the finish, but a healthy acidity and tannin stops the wine being – well – bloated.

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