211. Les Caves du Sieur d’Arques, Toques et Clochers Limoux Océanique, 2000

€9.60; 13%

Mid-yellow-gold colour. Initially butterscotch and hazelnut, then apple, green banana, yellow melon on the nose. Light, crisp palate with appley, green-banana flavours and a bitterness on the finish. Disappointing. “Technical” wine: cleanly made, with executed malo-lactic notes, and generally fresh, well-finished elements. But a bit lean, and the different bits didn’t fit together to make a whole wine. Pity, given the journey it’d had from Limoux, and the heaviest bottle ever!