362. Lucien et André Brunel, Châteauneuf-du-Pape Les Cailloux, 2003

£20.21 (after discount); 14%

First bottle of this was subtly corked, which was extra-annoying because I could see the quality smothered by the TCA. But the POTG lads replaced without quibble. The classic Rhône regional red was one of the second Optimor case. Best wine so far, too. Mid-depth garnet core and a medium brick rim. Wonderful complexity on the nose, with quite intense garrigue and ‘baked earth’ over some tea, and undefined red fruit. ‘Warm’ aromas – sweet spices, some meaty background notes, and later tobacco, milk-chocolate and marmite! Sweet, with gentle tannin and some subtle alcoholic warmth. Slightly smoky red fruit, but also some crème de cassis. Good spicy length with chocolate notes and emerging tannin. Lovely!