698. Domaine de la Janasse, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2003

£20.52; 14.5%

Wine of the night. Coming into maturity – of tannins and flavour intensity – yet still showing pure fruit at the core. And very well-balanced. Medium-depth ruby-garnet. Pronounced, slightly perfumed fruit that is best described as redcurrant jelly or strawberry jam, but in a positive, attractive fashion. Some subtle spice, liquorice and above all milk chocolate complexity. Full-bodied, with silky tannins, and a broad, attractive red fruit, kirsch and milk chocolate palate. Medium acidity. Very well integrated, balanced alcohol. Long and just pleasure.