A great start to Christmas Eve dining that changed continually with aeration and warming, to reveal a rich, complex, but balanced white. This certainly merits 18 / 20, though maybe not 18.5 from JR. Not great value, but a great experience. Mid gold. Medium intensity, becoming pronounced on warming. Initially toasty, creamy mandarin, and vanilla-laced apricots, with a dry ‘mineral’ note. On warming, progressively nuttier, with blanched almond and more toasty, buttery notes. Then preserved lemon hints, and toastiness progressively integrated with the fruit to make a harmonious whole. On aeration, finally orange blossom, fresh-cut apricot and more lemon fruit come back. Even when cold, oily, quite thick, but dominated by dry minerality and slight bitterness on warming, ever more lemon, creamy yellow peach, then toastiness filled-out the mid-palate, eventually creating a richer, softer, balanced flavour. Apricot and mandarin fruits finally emerged to yield a lovely wine!