An exploration of wine

601. Louis-Benjamin Dagueneau, Blanc Fumé de Pouilly, 2008

588 0
Book 4 Wine 601

£39.95; 12%

Another one out of chronological order – should be flipped with the Gruner Veltliner that accompanied the first course of Saturday’s Booker Dinner – Salade Niçoise. This, by contrast was one of the cheese course wines, although in the end there wasn’t an acidic-enough cheese like goat’s to match well to this. That may have been why only half the bottle went, sadly. Because this was a really good restrained-yet-powerful Sauvignon Blanc, that introduced Didier Dagueneau wines quite well. Pale lemon. Medium intensity ‘restrained pungency’ of nettle and gooseberry, some lemon and truly a hint of smoke. High acidity, with a ‘fizz’ of grapefruit and lemon juice flavour, and chalky mineral undertones. A surprisingly ‘rich’ finish – medium-long. Not profound, but a very good Sauvignon Blanc – much deeper than Oyster Bay (c. £10) for example.

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