An exploration of wine

572. Rey Fernando de Castilla, Antique Oloroso Sherry, NV (2011)

114 0
Book 4 Wine 572
£13.50 / 37.5cl; 19%

From John Lewis Food Hall. A random purchase, this – riding my recent Sherry wave a little longer. And an interesting one because it claims age, but neither VOS nor VORS certification. I wonder why? Anyway, overall certainly a very good wine, but not an exceptional one, so doesn’t quite make the grade. Mid amber colour – surprisingly pale, fading to a broad watery rim, and without any obvious olive colour. Pronounced nose though: initially coconut and cocoa-powdered caramel, that resolves into walnut, clove hints and toasty oak complexity. Stewed oranges and mandarin fruit. Medium-bodied, dry and rounded – well-balanced. A hint of salty tang. Initially ripe lemon and mandarin fruit, then dried peel. Moves into walnut and oak spice again. Long, rancio-tinged finish. Again, certainly very good… just not excellent as many VORS olorosos can be.

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