402. Marchesi di Grésy, Barbaresco Gaiun Martinenga, 1998

€77; 14%

[signed in 2017 by: brother Alessandro di Grésy, sister Ludovica di Grésy and Kiwi winemaker, Jeff Chilcott]

This is an exceptionally well-made and good quality wine. However, it was the most controversial wine of the night. Kari and Kieran didn’t like it because of its very savoury (and ‘masculine’) style. I would say that its tannins (which were definitely there to give good, long-lived structure, but were ‘hiding’ behind well-concentrated fruit) could soften yet further to make this better in 3-5 more years. Quite deep garnet colour. Intense nose, with dried fruit, plus a liquorice & smoky coating. Full-bodied, structured palate, with ripe tannins hidden behind a black-fruit palate. Good, but could have become great… pity I had only this bottle!