249. Bodegas LAN, Rioja Gran Reserva, 1996

€14.04; 12.5%

Not bad, but not great. Definitely something about raised expectations with a few Gran Reservas from the ’94-’96 trio of good Rioja vintages. Light garnet core with a brick tinge at the rim. Medium intensity nose with some early signs of maturity to the bouquet: strawberry and ?red cherry? fruit core but enveloped by burnt sugar, coffee and cocoa notes. Fresh acidity and tannic grip gave structure, but only a medium intensity of flavour on the mid-palate, and a little short, leaving a sense of a lack of concentration. Maybe a temperature thing?