887. Domaine Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Combe-du-Dessus, 2002

£60; 13%

The wine of Christmas. A reminder how great Burgundy can be. Maturing, but not at all old. Might have 10 more years? Mid-garnet, with a relatively narrow rim. Pronounced earthy notes over dried red cherry and some fresh fruit. Cinnamon touches from quality oak. Maturity of tea leaves and soy. Becomes quite gamey. Medium body. Bright, juicy acidity. Cherry fruit and toasty soy complexity. Classically silky tannins, and long, beautifully balanced, perfumed finish.