By a short head, the wine of the sparkling flight. Mid-gold, with a fine, very lazy bead (the 5 atm pressure on this instead of the 6 for their NV?). Overt, creamy, slightly yeasty, light nose with some popcorn. Not vinous. Yellow fruit, and restrained lemon, beneath moderately developed buttered, toasted brioche. On the palate, focused. ‘Slender’, medium body. Elegant and again not vinous. Fine mousse. Cream, fresh butter and brioche. Chalky mineral mid-palate, and a lemon-cream finish. Powerfully delicate, and quite long.