737. d’Oliveiras, Malvazia Colheita Madeira, 1990

£??; 20%

Though not a full vintage – a Colheita rather than Frasqueira – this was a very good example of fully-sweet Malvasia Madeira. Medium amber. Broad, caramel-olive rim. Hazelnut and walnut. Coffee-cream, milk chocolate and a hint of smoke. Quite complex, with overlays of vanilla and caramel. On the palate, more milk chocolate and a candied lemon undertow. Slight smoky hazelnuts on the mid-palate. Despite being fully sweet, crisply acidic and full-bodied. Long, medium-sweetness fruit.