Well… I decided to splash out with Rob and Jack at a tapas bar, when I saw this at the (relatively) modest price (compared with £80 retail). A bit of infanticide, and it was straight from the cellar, so needed warming, but this nevertheless showed its class. It just kept developing, opening and improving in the glass. But the real surprise was how supple and accessible it already is. Yes, there are some tannins that emerge at the finish, but they’re so ripe and integrated that it just made the texture like velvet. Subtle cassis, along notes of toast, coconut, vanilla, and only the earliest tertiary development. Medium-full bodied, and a great food wine (not to mention just a great wine). Balanced, poised; concentrated but elegant.