So this should be the test of a true “great producer”: quality in a truly awful vintage. Overall, not too great a “presence” in this wine for such a vaunted producer – missing concentration, which I guess reflected the washout of 2002. At €29 (even for a “€60” producer), not great VFM. Mid-depth garnet core with narrow brick rim. Mid-intensity prune and cherry nose with integrated touches of smoke, toasty oak and vanilla (oak use subtle, to match dilute fruit). Mid-intensity flavour and body. Gentle tannins and ‘watery’ freshness of acidity. ?Raspberry? flavours with notable black pepper (Syrah content??) spice. Medium length. Some “Chianti” style?