266. Château de Saint Cosme, Côtes-du-Rhône, 2003

€10; 13.5%

Seeing this in Dundrum Harvey Nicks at €10, from the Barruols, I had to try it (given the quality of their Gigondas). Great value for money – even if it doesn’t scale the heights of the ’99 Coudoulet de Beaucastel (more like €17 a bottle…). Deep ruby core and a narrow purple rim. A core of jammy dark fruit with pronounced coal smoke, pepper and some animally notes. Some tannic grip and notable acidity. Medium-bodied with only moderate extraction. A sweet fruit flavour, with a medium-length toasty finish. Sealed with a compound synthetic cork – sort of ‘spongy’ core, covered in 1mm plastic coating…interesting.