264. Henschke, Keyneton Estate Euphonium Barossa, 2002

€35.06; 14.5%

My first taste of Henschke, who are reputed to be one of Australia’s finest, and make one of Aus’ iconic wines. But I baulked at €315 for a bottle of Hill of Grace! Instead, the guy in The Corkscrew recommended this as a starter for 10. A clean, well made wine that pleased easily, and showed what the company’s probably capable of. Having said that, for the price, I expected more complexity and longevity (although my parents’ house was a little cool on serving…). Deep garnet core with broad ruby rim. Initially muted nose that opened up into pencil lead, wood-smoke, spice, lamby-meat, and touches of vanilla and dark fruit. Upfront palate: sweet, juicy blackberry fruit but with good acidity. Soft, spicy tannin. A warm finish. Good length overall, but a touch front-loaded.