An exploration of wine

228. Marqués de Riscal, Rioja Gran Reserva, 1995

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Book 2 Wine 228

€28; 13%

Doesn’t leave much room for comment, which is a pity. Much more satisfying than the Cáceres alongside! Good quality, well-balanced Gran Reserva. Light-medium garnet core with narrow, brick rim. Developed, pronounced nose, with much complexity. Saddle-leather, licorice, dark chocolate & cocoa nibs, Serrano ham and hot sawdust (!) over a residual redcurrant jam (or dried?) fruit core. Good acidic structure with ‘warm’ flavours and soft, peppery tannin. Definitively long, complex and above all, well-knit. Careful GR use of oak. Very nice example, and for €28 it should be!

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