255. Bodegas Faustino, Faustino I Rioja Gran Reserva, 1995

€14.50; 12%

Good to test the top of Faustino’s range, and from a good year too. Satisfies: a pleasant Rioja. Mid-depth, garnet core with a medium width brick rim. Initially closed on the nose but opened up to medium intensity fresh leather hints and a touch of chocolate, then into blackberry licked with vanilla custard. Smooth, fresh palate of red cherry. Slightly woody overtones but good persistence of flavour. Some body – medium at least.