Roda: original modern face of Rioja and beyond

With a first vintage in 1992, Bodegas Roda were pioneers of the ‘modern’ Rioja style that emerged in that decade. Every aspect of their set-up epitomises this approach, from branding to bodega and of course the resulting wines.

In fact, there is no better contrast than to visit ultra-traditionalists Tondonia, then walk 3 minutes up the road to Roda, directly next door in the Barrio district of Haro. One, old vats, cobwebs and long-aged, classic Riojas; the other a cool, clean, pristine, designer bodega with richly-oaked, modern Rioja wines. Utterly different, yet both producing good and great wines.

Since rising to prominence in Rioja, mainly through their Roda Reserva and Roda I Reserva pair, followed by super-premium Cirsion bottling, the company has expanded into a Ribera del Duero line of wines: Corimbo from Bodegas La Horra. It also added the entry-level Sela to its Rioja range.

I have enjoyed a number of Roda wines, particularly Roda I, including their debut 1992, their fine 2001 and more recently their 2004 – though it is showing quite robust tannins at present, as I discovered at ProWein 2018.

This short profile is primarily built around going to the bodega in 2014, which included a fair amount of technical depth given that it was ‘just a tourist visit’, and supplemented by my ProWein notes.

 

In the Vineyard

Roda have access to 28 vineyard plots across 110km of the Rioja region, at 600-800m altitude. These are from 30 years of age, up to 75 years that typically goes into Cirsion and 90% Tempranillo, with the remainder Graciano and Garnacha.

Green harvesting is applied to limit yields somewhat, to 5t / Ha vs 6.5t / Ha permitted for Rioja as a whole. From these 28 parcels, the best 17 plots are selected for the Roda range, and hand-harvested into 15kg crates.

These are then transported to the bodega in Haro. Given the distances involved, SO₂ is added in the vineyard to help preserve the fruit during transportation.

 

In the Winery

As might be expected, bunches pass through a sorting table before being 100% destemmed and crushed. Each parcel is separately vinified in one of 17 20,000 and 10-12,000L closed French oak vats. Fermentation with natural yeast lasts 20-30 days, with 5 at 14-15°C, followed by the remainder controlled at 28°C, with twice-daily pumpovers. A week of maceration follows fermentation.

These 17 vats remain separated when the wine is transferred to barriques in the MLF room. Here, at 80% humidity, temperatures are controlled to 21°C and MLF takes place over a month (typically December) without inoculation. Once completed, the temperature is dropped to 4°C, to stabilise the wine.

Both Roda and Roda I wines are designated Reserva, so all 17 plots – still separate – go to different French oak for 14-18 months’ maturation in Medium toast Allier barriques, which are replaced every 3 years. These are racked every 3 months, and samples of the 17 plots are analysed.

Plots yielding red fruit profiles are designated for Roda Reserva; those with black fruit go to Roda I Reserva. These are then blended after maturation, in the original fermentation vats, then egg-white fined.

After a 20-day rest, they are bottled, then bottle-matured for 2 years, to meet the Reserva requirements for 3 years’ total maturation in oak and bottle.

 

Wines

Bodegas Roda Rioja Sela 2015 (15.5 / 20)
Tasted at ProWein 2018. 95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano.
A: Mid-ruby
N: Primary, almost some carbonic. Red & black fruits
P: Quite rustic, firm tannins. Spicy. Background oak spice

Bodegas Roda Rioja Sela 2010 (?? / 20)
Tasted at the bodega in 2014. 15-30 year old vines. 95% Tempranillo, 5% Graciano. 14% ABV. Not designated as Crianza or above.
A: Medium-deep ruby, with a narrow, cherry rim
N: Bright, red cherry fruit, with a slight bramble jam tinge. Spice and black pepper. Some bready, yeasty notes
P: Fruity with a savoury, granitic mineral undertow. Some background spice. Some degree of tannic firmness, but very fine-grained

Bodegas Roda Rioja Reserva Roda 2014 (16+ / 20)
Tasted at ProWein 2018. Some Garnacha and Graciano.
A: Mid-deep ruby
N: Mocha. Cedar. Cinnamon and clove
P: Red cherry. Firm, fine tannins (M+). M+ slightly warming

Bodegas Roda Rioja Reserva Roda 2008 (?? / 20)
Tasted at the bodega in 2014. 90% Tempranillo, 6% Graciano, 4% Garnacha. 13.5% ABV.
A: Medium-deep ruby-garnet
N: Vanilla, meaty cinnamon-toast, oak spice. Ripe (not sour) red cherry. Savoury but with sweet fruit underneath. Slatey mineral note
P: Fuller than Sela. Ripe, savoury, oaky palate. Blackberry fruit. Rich. Fine, but firmer tannins

Bodegas Roda Rioja Reserva Roda I 2011 (17.5 / 20)
Tasted at ProWein 2018.
A: Mid-deep ruby
N: Deep, cedar-clove. Refined. Ripe black cherry and crushed rock minerality beneath. Dense
P: Full-bodied, ripe spicy, smoky black fruit. Rich, but not super-powerful. Fairly-firm, very fine-grained tannins. Long

Bodegas Roda Rioja Reserva Roda I 2010 (17 / 20)
Tasted at ProWein 2018.
N: Tobacco tones. Some VA tiredness of sample (bottom of the bottle)? Toasty oak
P: Dense black fruit. Rich. Dense, compact, fine, firm to high tannins. Power. Flinty / smoky. Pretty long. Nice

Bodegas Roda Rioja Reserva Roda I 2004 (17.5 / 20)
Tasted at ProWein 2018.
A: Mid-deep Garnet
N: Attractive, integrated cedar, fresh tobacco and dried red & black fruits. Some earthy, forest tertiary character. Toasty. 100% clean?
P: Medium body. Truffle and earth tones over dried black fruit, mocha oak and spice. Very firm, fine tannins. Still needs 5 years before it’s ready

Bodegas Roda Rioja Reserva Cirsion 2015 (17+ / 20)
Tasted at ProWein 2018. Unusually 14% Graciano for acidity as a hot year; normally 100% Tempranillo
N: More floral, elegant and aromatic red and black cherry. Subtle caramel and vanilla oak
P: Black, ripe, slightly jammy fruit with vanilla overlay and spicy, mineral undertow. Firm, slightly grainy tannins. Needs 10 years

Bodegas Roda Corimbo Ribera del Duero 2013 (16 / 20)
Tasted at ProWein 2018. 100% Tempranillo, but younger vines
A: Mid ruby
N: Ripe, slightly jammy black cherry. Torrified oak tones and caramel. Sweet. Some cordite / minerality. More than entry level
P: Red fruit and oak spice. Some freshness, but in a ripe style. Spice. Firm, grainy tannins a little jarring

Bodegas Roda Corimbo I Ribera del Duero 2012 (17+ / 20)
Tasted at ProWein 2018.
A: Deep ruby-purple
N: Much richer, torrified and clove oak. Rich and dense
P: Full body, rich black, smoky fruit with weighty overtones of clove and spicy oak. Powerful. High, chalky tannins. Warming, but not overly so