An exploration of wine

845. Frescobaldi, Castello di Pomino Benefizio Pomino Bianco Riserva, 2011, 2012

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Book 5 Wine 845

£30; 13.5%, 13%

A split half-dozen courtesy of Planet of the Grapes, with both the 2011 and 2012 vintages. Planting them side-by-side, both were modern styles of Chardonnay, with “ambitious oak”. The 2012 was more overt on the nose, with riper tropical fruit tones and more pronounced vanilla oak. But ultimately that took away some acidity and refreshment that the 2011 had, making the 2011 the better wine. Pale gold. Almond, butter and gentle toast from barrel fermentation and malo-lactic. Notable oak with quite ripe fruit: a squeeze of passion over yellow peach. Some fresh grapefruit skin too. Chalky mineral. Creamy palate texure – batonnage. Some flinty mineral character comes through beneath rich, but not overripe fruit (melon). Some pleasant bitterness at the slightly short finish. A little ‘textbook’. Drink now.

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