441. Domaine de la Pinède, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, 2004

£??; 13.5%

An unexpected Châteauneuf, this one – relatively light bodied, red-fruited and fresh / high acidity – compared with some of the concentrated blockbusters that the appellation can deliver. Medium ruby-garnet core, fading to a broad, garnet rim. Initially quite animally, smoky nose, which opens into herbes de Provence, baked, cinnamon-spiced blackberry fruit, with earthy complexity. Sweet front-palate, which develops into crisp redcurrant and raspberry fruit, enveloped in slightly smoky, sweet spiced finish. Good tannic structure – ripe – in the background, and quite persistent length. Quite good. Unusual.