287. Domaine de la Pousse d’Or, Volnay 1er Cru, 1997

£19.99; 13%

This from Majestic, by contrast, was a delight. More rounded than some other Volnays I’ve had. Pale ruby with a broad fade-to-brick rim. Moderate intensity toasty oak and roast meat nose with some dark chocolate, smoke, red chilli and earth notes. Beautifully knit tannin, and acidity that gives a juiciness (cranberry & raspberry blend). Coffee and pepper-spice hints on a gentle, moderate length finish. I think it’d go well with grilled tuna, and maybe lamb roast. I understand why Pousse d’Or are generally well regarded!