42. Domaine Bertagna, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits “Les Dames Huguettes” Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes Unfiltered, 1998

£5-6; 12.5%

The ultimately most bastard hard label to remove! A not expensive Burgundy with a nice balance of oak to smooth fruit. Hautes Côtes seems to be a solid AOC, which produces reliable wines that represent Burgundy well – whether HC de Nuits or de Beaune funnily enough…

Cave des Hautes Côtes I like, but Domaine Bertagna can evidently do it well too. This Domaine was the first I went to in Burgundy (outside Chablis)!