247. Marqués del Puerto, Rioja Gran Reserva, 1995

€16; 13%

Third of a trio of slight disappointments – not as good as the ’96 Reserva promised from Del Puerto. I was expecting more balance, integration and above all concentration from a Gran Reserva from a year like 1995. Medium-depth garnet colour with a brick tinge to the rim. Toasty banana nose with some herb / garrigue notes. Red plum notes, which came through on the palate as greengage, or yellow-fleshed, red skinned plums like from my parents’ garden. Crisp acidity with some noteable tannic grip. Not quite integrated – would it come together with time? I’d guess unlikely.