An exploration of wine

451. Château Laforge, Saint Emilion Grand Cru, 2003

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Book 3 Wine 451

£9.75; 13.5%

Picked this up as a discounted case from J&B via Rob. When I started to hear comments about 2003s (for which St Emilion is not favoured) being cooked with hard tannins, I started to get worried. But we opened a bottle as part of our Bordeaux and Cabernet Sauvignon revision tasting session, and it showed very well indeed – probably the wine of the session. Clear, opaque garnet core, with a narrow ruby-garnet rim. Fairly intense ‘modern’ nose with some slightly stewed dark fruit, a touch of eucalyptus, and a warm ‘cloak’ of oak-cinnamon, pain grillé, coffee and particularly cocoa. Some touches of grilled meat. Fairly full-bodied crème de cassis, cocoa, cedar & oak spice, slightly earthy palate, with ripe, fine grained tannins, a great mouthfeel, and good length. I think this will continue to show well in 3-5 years.

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