An exploration of wine

70. Domaines Schlumberger, Pinot Gris Grand Cru Kitterlé Alsace, 1997

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Book 1 Wine 70

£17; 13.5%

Had 2 bottles of this and was very disappointed with the first. It is NOT a Pinot Grigio. However, on drinking the second I began to understand where it could be “Grand Cru”. This is far from a light refresher. Aromas of butter and buttered toast, licked with vanilla reflect the well oak-aged nature. Initially the flavour and texture is oily and heavy with some sweetness, but the unusual bit was the very dry finish – not really acidic – more tannic. This was the bit which disappointed the first time, but you can get used to it. Very complex wine, with other aromas emerging of strawberry, bread pudding, smoky cinnamon, and above all barley sugar. Flavours of stewed stone fruit and creaminess on the long, dry finish. Deep golden colour and thick body.

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