733. Bodegas Roda, Roda I Rioja Reserva, 2004

£35; 14.5%

I thought I’d grabbed the 1992 to bring to Booker, as an interesting wine – being their first vintage, albeit an inauspicious one – but happened to have picked up the excellent 2004. No matter, it was enjoyable either way, even if this probably has a comfortable decade ahead of it. Deep garnet core, with a medium rim, fading to watery. Opens with an oak lead: vanilla, ‘cheese’, oak spice, clove and a distinctive espresso bean / roast coffee note. Some earthiness and nuttiness over juicy red cherry. On the palate, damson laced with espresso, a rich cherry mid-palate, through to a minerally, slightly espresso-bitter finish. Chilli-peppery, high, fine tannins. Medium acidity, medium+ body and medium+ alcohol. Good. Very good.