France
44. Maison François Martenot, Gevrey-Chambertin, 1996
For a regular AOC Gevrey-Chambertin selected at midnight in a cash ‘n’ carry in Calais, the result was unexpected and pleasant. Deep Burgundy with …
42. Domaine Bertagna, Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits “Les Dames Huguettes” Pinot Noir Vieilles Vignes Unfiltered, 1998
The ultimately most bastard hard label to remove! A not expensive Burgundy with a nice balance of oak to smooth fruit. Hautes Côtes seems …
41. Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix, Celliers du Vieux Château, Chablis Premier Cru Côte de Lechet, 1995
One of the most bastard difficult labels I’ve ever chosen to remove… but a nice premier cru. Straw-yellow colour betrays the depth of the …
38. M. Chapoutier, Côtes-du-Rhône Belleruche, 1999
Black pepper – a lot. Quite gum-dry, suggesting relatively high tannin levels. Should age OK for a year-or-two. Another fine Belleruche from Chapoutier. Black …
37. Maurice Vesselle, Champagne Brut Grand Cru Cuvée Réservée, NV
A recommendation of an ex-manager, François, and a stroke of genius. Deep gold colour. A full-bodied crisp Champagne. Apricot + yeasty aromas suggests a …
36. Association des Producteurs du Cru “Juliénas”, Juliénas, 1996
Bought in 1997 in the village. Surprisingly weighty Beaujolais – dark and fruity – cherry I think. The 1998, however, was considerably less impressive. …
34. Vignerons de Roueïre, Chardonnay Le Grand Chêne Oak Fermented Vin de Pays d’Oc, 1997
A simple and clean oaked chardonnay. Creamy but crisp finish. An unexpected surprise, and very nice. Part of a mixed case from Bordeaux Direct …
31. M. Chapoutier, Crozes-Hermitage Les Meysonniers, 1995
I bought this in summer 1997 at the Chapoutier Cave, with the intentions of keeping it until the Millenium (it was a bit tough …
30. Les Caves des Hautes-Côtes, Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits Tete de Cuvée, 1996
Needs to breathe a little before opening, but is an excellent, ready to drink Burgundy. Lighter, red fruit wine, with the right amount of …
29. Domaine de Durban, Muscat de Beaumes-de-Venise, 1997
Very drinkable Muscat de Beaumes de Venise. Tea-and-orange-peel as usual but stronger on the orange sharpness. Slightly sweeter than usual, so matched up quite …