Marchesi di Grésy: monopolising Martinenga 
Gaja: brilliance in Barbaresco 
Judgement of London: English Sparkling versus Champagne 
Other Asti styles surprise 
Brachetto d’Acqui: red, sweet, sparkling, different 
Barbera d’Asti and Nizza: finest Barbera? 
c. £18; 12.5%
…the second wine of Leoville Barton, which – though relatively young as a ’98 – was a reasonably elegant compromise between the Latour and d’Angludet. Again, similar Bordeaux blend, dominated by austere, oaked Cabernet Sauvignon, but here more in-balance and closer to ready to drink. Nice.
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