Klein Constantia: stellar whites, sweet and dry 
Marqués de Riscal: Gehry hotel outshining solid Rioja and Rueda 
La Rioja Alta: benchmark classical Riojas especially top flight Gran Reservas 
Marqués de Murrieta: Rioja aristocracy built around Castillo Ygay 
CVNE: Combining volume and classical quality 
Contino: Château-style Rioja and Graciano pioneers 
c. £18; 12.5%
…the second wine of Leoville Barton, which – though relatively young as a ’98 – was a reasonably elegant compromise between the Latour and d’Angludet. Again, similar Bordeaux blend, dominated by austere, oaked Cabernet Sauvignon, but here more in-balance and closer to ready to drink. Nice.
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