397. Catena Zapata, Catena Alta Malbec Mendoza, 2004

£28; 14%

Dorffer asked for Malbec, so that’s what I got from POTG. A bit of infanticide this, for sure: whilst drinkable now, it’ll start giving great pleasure in maybe 2-4 years, and probably survive 5 more after that! Dense, opaque, black-purple core with a narrow purple rim. Moderate intensity, slightly ‘closed’ nose, initially. A core of black fruit, but enveloped in clove-like, woody oak notes (French oak?). Slightly ‘inky’ aromas, and a touch of herbal character. Sweet, blackcurrant-led fruit palate, with chocolate notes. Full-bodied, but with fresh acidity that gives life. Alcohol well integrated, despite being (?) >13.5%. But above all, quite prominent, slightly grainy tannin gives that structure for ageing potential.